Day 6 - JAFSP (The Infirmary)

See my late night visitor? Better him than a scorpion.

Today started a bit later today and a new group of students and I headed to the Infirmary for the day. We worked with three different groups of older men in the morning and headed to lunch where we ate "veg" (Jamaican word for "vegetarian"). It was wonderful, but it took a long time for all the food to be prepared. We didn't know what was going to be served. You go in, sit down, and wait to be surprised by what the cook has decided to prepare that day. First we were served a carrot, cucumber, and ginger juice which was interesting. We had appetizers of two different kinds of fried plantains (I wish I had taken a picture of the food), and then the main dish arrived. There were probably 7 different kinds of food on the plate. Vegetables are prepared differently here, with interesting combinations. Cabbage, sweet potato, and other familiar vegetables are used, but there were many that I did not recognize. It tastes good though! The dessert was called "wine cake" and it had mango to top it off. It was delicious, but hard to describe.

We returned to the infirmary for four more groups before heading home. We stopped at the market to pick up some drinks and snacks and then there was just a little free time before we had our nightly drumming class (which is getting to be much more challenging, learning many new songs and rhythms each time!) followed by a brief planning session for the next day. We then headed up the street for a dance party, where they started off playing Whitney Houston music, followed by some 90's dance music, but mixed by a D.J. and often with reggae beats thrown in. I headed home early because I have an early day tomorrow, because I am working at the school again.

The infirmary experience is very difficult to describe. The faces of the people we met and worked with today are floating around in my head. The conditions are not like they are in the U.S., but rather it is a Jamaican version of long term care. There is a women's ward and a men's ward. They have open windows and there are several people in a room in most cases. Some sit outside on the porch while others are lying in their beds inside.

A music therapy student working with a resident of the Infirmary

There were a couple of moments which stand out to me. The first building we entered and the first man I saw come to mind. He had very caring eyes and shook my hand eagerly. We sang many songs while in the room, and one was "Wings of  a Dove". He was lying down and I sang "If I had the wings of a dove, if I had the wings of a dove, I would fly..fly away...Since I have no wings, since I have no wings, since I have no wings I'm going to sing, sing, sing". He looked up and said, in his Jamaican accent, "It's true." We later sang a song called "Buddhist Blessing" ("May you be filled with loving kindness, may you be well. May you be peaceful and at ease, may you be happy..may you be happy") and I was sitting with him again. I was overwhelmed by his immense dignity and felt so priviledged to be there at his side.

In another room, I was talking to a man and asked him if he had a favorite song. I didn't know the title (and sometimes the accent and Patois language they speak at times is hard to follow) and asked him to sing it for us. Out of this quiet man came a sweet song about writing a letter to mommy and daddy to tell them "I am coming home". One of the students was able to accompany him by ear and it was truly beautiful and heartfelt on his part. In that same room, when we sang the "Buddhist Blessing", the students sat next to different residents in the room and put their arm around them as the soft and quiet song was song by everyone. It was one of those moments in which everything felt elevated. The room was full of love and compassion through the music, and also through the contact with people who live in a place where they don't get that kind of contact consistenly ---this brought tears to my eyes. It was a truly exceptional moment.

The final room that one group of students was working in was memorable because it was a group of 4 men who absolutely loved music and singing. They sang in full voice, playing instruments and leading US in songs. One man was standing and played rhythms on a drum as he sang song after song. I sat next to one man as he sang out fully on "Amazing Grace" and harmonies were floating around the room between me and the students (as well as the residents) --I can only describe the feeling I experienced as gratitude.

Day 5 - JAFSP

My calves and hips are really aching from that blasted hike, but this morning I was completely fine. I have two bad blisters on the back of my feet (which is all I got, amazingly). I'm worried about these because we have another, much shorter hike up a hill to a coconut plantation on Thursday. At the top, we go to a coconut plantation where a guy shimmies up a tree, gets a coconut, and then we get to drink the coconut milk (by the way, everyone drinks coconut water here...they say it has tremendous electrolytes). 

I was reflecting on this experience of the JAFSP today. It has been so challenging in many ways for me on a personal and professional level (which is what I was seeking). There have been some amazing moments for me...others have just been surreal. Tonight, after our drumming class and our MT supervision/training session, Tracy W. and I got some snacks and drinks and sat out on a cliff. Literally. Her hut is on a cliff and outside it, there is this enormous lounger chair that fits two. We laid back and looked at the most amazing sky I have seen...maybe ever (and that includes Santa Fe, which is extraordinary). I saw constellations I am sure I've never seen and we watched shooting stars for some time, and way off at the horizon there was lightning in a far off storm. It was just fantastic. I tear up thinking how beautiful it was and I didn't want to have to come back to my hut. It is in those moments that you gain perspective on yourself, others, and our existence on this earth.

Today was also our first day of going to the sites, so my assigned students and I arrived at the School of Hope at 8:30 a.m. and we joined them for their morning devotionals (down here prayer and religion are not separated from school) and they told us to bring our instruments. I was panicking a bit because I had no clue what they did, or what they expected from us. Luckily we knew some of the songs they sang, and we played/sang along as much as we could. I love how they dance and clap as they sing gospel music, etc. Then we watched a brief story from the Bible by two of the teachers. One, who is hearing impaired, would tell the story in sign, and then another would translate. I loved watching the translator demonstrate "da big fish" throwing Jonah back up, and so did the kids.  

Music therapy students at School of Hope site- they are from  programs all over the U.S.

We worked with the first group for about 45 minutes, then another group for about the same time. The students took turns leading songs, movement experiences, and rhythm experiences. The students then had a break/snack, so they came out with food and immediately made a beeline for us sitting outside (all sessions were held outside. We moved chairs - sometimes during a group - anytime we lost shade to keep the heat more bearable). We then worked with a group of children with hearing impairments (It was larger- maybe around 10?) which was a terrific learning experience for all of us! I learned a lot of new signs and we were really thinking on our feet! We had lunch there and then had a few students come back out for 2:1 sessions. I feel like I did a decent job of modeling and providing guidance without completely taking over, so hopefully the students felt the same. I also hope that tomorrow goes as well as today did because I'm going to be at the infirmary with 3 of the same students from today and tomorrow there will be 3 different students (we are all on a different rotation). At recess the kids returned to the tables we were sitting at outside and started asking to take pictures with the students' cameras and started picking up instruments. We let them and soon they were all playing together with a few leading rhythms we have learned down here. It was chaotic and fun. At one point, a girl sat down next to me, reached out and dragged her finger across my arm very intently, looked at her fingers and then rubbed them together. I said, "Are you trying to see if it rubs off?" and she nodded in agreement--then she smiled broadly. White skin is very unusual for some of the people in this country, particularly in the rural areas. 

Children eager to get picture taken with a student

This evening we ate Jerk Pork and "veg" (which just means vegetables) at "Davey's", the stand we ate at our first night here (which feels like 10 years ago) and then I walked to a nearby stand for fresh pineapple which the guy cut up right there, taking out all the prickly things and bagging for me for less than $2 (U.S.). I am going to miss the consistent fresh fruit access SO much. At the school, while the lunch wasn't anything too amazing, the juice they brought us had passion fruit, ginger, and mango in it and it was COLD (something I will try not to take for granted ever again) and delicious. Tomorrow we go to lunch at a "veg" place where today he apparently served freshly squeezed orange juice (done right in front of people), then fresh fruit platters, followed by some type of vegetable dish (and I'm liking most of the vegetables and unique salads done here!)...all for around $8 (U.S.) or 800J (Jamaican dollars)!

Tomorrow I head to the infirmary which I'll write about later!

Day 4 - JAFSP June 10th

That brown line on the branch? That's an ant tunnel....

Today was quite the day...and truly the most physically challenging day I have had in many, many years. I am not inactive, but I am not an athlete by any means. I do walk, and hike trails. However, in Indiana, I hike relatively level trails through the woods. I was not prepared for the hike we did today, but I truly tried my absolute best. The hike for all the students ended up being close to 8 miles. I ended up hiking somewhere around 5 miles. We started at an old Spanish fort which has been converted into a hotel of sorts.

Eric Wills at old Spanish Fort

local dancing for the students

door at the Spanish fort

 When we first started the hike, the heat and humidity immediately sapped my strength and by about a mile in I did not feel well. One of the staff gave me part of a granola bar which helped a lot! The terrain was so different than any I have ever walked. There were steep inclines that were very rocky (hard to find the rocks hidden under grasses at times!), grassy trails through what was almost prairie-like fields, along the coast on a beach (where tiny rocks which make up the beach would get stuck in your shoes), through more jungle canopy where you needed to hike over tree roots and push away foliage, etc. Between the more strenuous parts of the hike and the heat/humidity, I struggled. By the time we reached Black Beach a little over 2 miles in, I knew there was no physical way I could continue to the end (to see the waterfall, which was difficult to give up) and then turn around and hike all the way back. So, I stayed on the beach while the rest of the group went on. Tracy decided to stay with me and one of the guides. There we sat, two working moms and a Rastafarian guide, sitting on the beach. We chatted for some time and the guide talked about working as a roofer in Kingston at times and then we talked about fishing around the island. Finally, the guide took his machete (they all have machetes), cut off a giant palm frond, laid it down and proceeded to take a nap while we waited. It was truly a wonderful, surreal moment.

Lion looks a bit intimidating with his machete, but he was an amazing guide

Black Beach

After the group spent time at the waterfall, they returned to pick us up and we all headed back. It was a good decision for me not to do the entire hike, based on how I felt going back, but it was a bit better because it had cooled down a little by the time we hiked back. This was truly a personal accomplishment for me, and I teased Eric Wills, the Director, telling him "Thanks to Eric Wills, I now know how out of shape I truly am!". The students all did an amazing job on the hike and were very excited on the way back to where we are staying. I am sure we will all sleep well tonight.

Students headed back after the hike

We spent time later in the evening planning and preparing for our work at the infirmary, homeless shelter and  School of Hope.

Looking up through trees in jungle on hike

Goat Farmer at top of cliff

View from one of the trails

stunning views (when I could manage to look up)

Day Three- JAFSP

Hard to show the range of blues in the water

It is so hard to recall the entire day because it feels like we packed in so much into one day.The breakfast this morning was the usual: eggs, toast (great bread!) which I tried with guava jelly, coffee (stronger than when I was in France, if it's possible--in Jamaica, though, instead of cream and sugar, they use condensed milk), juice, and watermelon. I met with Tracy W., the other supervisor, about our agenda for this evening's meeting with the music therapy students, and then we all got ready to go to the beach. The beach was not too far away, but we rode in two different vans. Our van stopped at the top of a very rough road and we had to hike down to the beach. Mainly, it was covered in tree roots and rocks, so it was a bit challenging not to twist an ankle, but we all managed. At the top of the hill was a beautiful mango (pronounced "MAHN-GO") tree and some goats. 

Goats digging through garbage and fallen mangoes

One type of mango--"Stringy Mango"

The beach was incredible...the colors of the ocean water here along the coast are stunning!

We were able to eat lunch at the beach, swim, and also walk the beach to visit vendors set up along the shoreline. Most sold jewelry, while others sold unique pieces of art, etc. We all tried to avoid getting burned, but still got too much sun. I could have stayed in that water the entire day, it felt so amazing! It was also a great opportunity to get to know more of the students better, and we had many fun conversations throughout the day.

Beach visited

After we returned from the beach, we had a little free time before dinner which was spent showering and getting things in order for later in the evening. At dinner, we were treated to a dance group who performed traditional Jamaican dances for us. I didn't get a picture, but I did take video of the group. The ages of the members ranged from around 8 to adult. It is so interesting how different people of this culture (and many others) dance as compared to those of us in the United States. The dances hold so much meaning and symbolism, stemming from deep history. It was wonderful to experience, and they even have a  version of the May Pole dance!

After dinner we had our drum class, followed by group meetings (Music Therapy and Music Education, separately). The music therapy group focused on getting their repertoire for the volunteer work prepared, along with beginning to tell the students about the sites where they will be working starting on Monday. I will be at the School of Hope with a group of students, working with the children on both Monday and Tuesday. Then, on Wednesday and Thursday, I'll be at the Infirmary. We're waiting to determine where we will be on Friday. There is so much to take in, from the new drumming rhythm patterns, to the new songs being taught each night, to just learning how things work! Following the meeting, everyone headed down the street for some more music and dancing, like last night, but the group returned earlier than usual to rest up for tomorrow.

This is Lily. She is VERY talkative.

Tracy and I met after returning to create the groups for the coming week (placing students in groups of three, based on many factors), and then returned to our rooms. Tomorrow is going to be a tremendous challenge for me: an 8 mile hike. I am hoping my hiking sandals don't hurt my feet, and also that I don't embarrass myself by passing out in the heat or worse, not being able to keep walking and holding up the group! The reward after the first 4 miles is a waterfall, where we get to swim. I am hoping this motivates me to keep walking through a great deal of discomfort I am sure to feel. Keep me in your thoughts. I'm nothing if not persistent. ;)

Sweet Jamaican beach cat

Day Two - JAFSP

Boston Bay beach

Today was full. Very full. And HOT. Tracy (the other MT supervisor) and I spent several hours with Eric, running errands with him in town before heading to the three sites we'll be working at next week. He picked up the custom-made drums ordered by students made by a local man. They are amazing with wonderful tone. We then had lunch at a place called Anna Banana. I had their fried chicken which was NOTHING like fried chicken at home, and fried plantains. 

fried chicken with sauce

smoking the chicken

Plaintains

All good. I never knew all the ways chicken could be prepared, but it is wonderful here. Jerk chicken, particularly the jerk sauce, was created right here. It was something else following the director Eric through town. It seems like EVERYONE knows him and he has many friends here which is why he is able to keep JAFSP going strong. He did things like buy an enormous bag of rice for the infirmary before he took us through, as a gesture, and he connects with everyone very well.  The infirmary, while difficult to tour in many respects is something that I feel I was prepared for very well (from my own students' experiences in the past, as well as from Eric)... How the students will handle it? Not sure. Some of the beds were really unclean and the condition of many was not good, but they smiled SO big when we introduced ourselves. One man, (who didn't have a leg) when I asked how he was doing, shrugged and said, "Well, you know...I have a good life!" Their positive attitudes and optimism in this culture are astounding...as is the poverty. Shops and stores are literally in tin shacks in many places.

Looking at jewelry for sale at beach

Students relaxing before dinner in general meeting area

steps coming back from Boston Beach (my hut is up to the left)

I found myself really looking forward to working at the infirmary. One man had a lizard crawling above his bed, while another man was covered in his food. And still, their response to us just walking in....amazing. We met vendors at the market in Port Antonio and all try to sell you something, so you just have to be direct. Some cool stuff though, made from local seeds, coconuts, and other natural resources. Also, bamboo is used a great deal. 

Outside my hut made of bamboo. Look closely and you'll see the lizard.

The homeless shelter is going to be more of a drumming class or recreational music-making and we only met the staff there. 

We went to the School of Hope and it was great. The kids ran and opened the gate for us to enter. Several children had Down Syndrome, hearing impairments, etc. as this is a school for children with special needs. They were all smiles and waves. It will be great to work there as well.

We ran songs tonight and had our first "MT meeting" and I'm still learning names. There are so many people...31 total in our group, with 16 or 17 being MT students. We also had our first drumming class. Eric said he would start assuming they knew nothing and started out completely at the beginning on how to hit the drum. Then, within 30 minutes was showing us all sorts of rhythms and teaching us songs. Quite the learning curve. I can't believe all the new information we all have to take in...from new food, music, rhythms, lyrics, words, names of people, etc. 
   

local plant...the colors are leaves, not flowers

This evening, after training, we went into Boston Bay (the little town we're staying in) and they had a "talent show". It was basically on a street and these two guys started it with playing/mixing dance music. Eventually, different guys went up and would do rap/reggae style songs. It was LOUD, but students danced along with the locals and so Eric, me, Tracy, and the other supervisors hung around until they all wanted to come back here. Every once in awhile, a car would come barreling down the street and the entire party had to split down the middle and let it pass, but would immediately return to the street. I did try a "Grape Nut" ice cream which was good.

Tomorrow we go to a beach near here, in our last "relaxed" day. I'm looking forward to swimming and being cooler! Sunday is the big hike. At the end of the first leg of the hike, there is apparently a gorgeous waterfall where we get to swim, then come back. This will be a big accomplishment for me if my feet and back make it out okay.

The "Errol Flynn" Marina (click here)

That's about all...there is so much I can't explain about the culture and the people here. The way of life is so laid back....and Eric was telling us that a guy told him to not stress out so much, that it was bad for his health. Meanwhile the guy didn't know how he was going to feed his kids that week....again, the optimism is awesome. Each person I met at the market in town shook hands in a different way...often they would say something with the handshake/fist bump/thumb touch sequence like "Peace, love, light... we are all one" or something along those lines. Peace, love, and light...indeed.

amazing view from one of the huts 

Day One - JAFSP

We all made it to Jamaica. Let me add that this is not a trip to a Sandals resort or one of the walled beach areas for tourists. We are lucky to see the real Jamaica, meet the people in their own environment, and learn how important having all of us buying dinner from the locals is on their local economy. I can't even describe it. After driving through remote villages/towns, down roads with people selling bananas, mangoes, etc., after seeing some very extreme poverty in rural Jamaica (but only from the road, not up close yet), I'm sitting in a tree house, listening to the ocean and the tree frogs, I'm soaked with sweat, and wondering if there is a creature walking on the floor...or worse, one of the 4-5 inch carnivorous centipedes, and wondering if the staff person will bring me a mosquito netting after all (which he did! Hooray for George!). I am thankful there is a fan in here, which will likely make sleeping more possible. The breezes coming in the windows (well, the openings in my hut) are stronger now which is wonderful. 

The flights went fine and I was amazed at how quickly we got here. An hour to Atlanta and then another 2.5 hours to Jamaica. The wait at the airport took awhile, but I'm told it went fast for what usually happens. I finally put my contacts back in once in Montego Bay. I was tired of my glasses sliding down my face in the heat. We walked outside and I felt I might lose my breath with the heat and humidity. Thankfully, there are typically breezes, which makes the heat bearable. I know I'll forsake any attempt at make up, though, which is nice. Eric Wills, the Director, went over the itinerary and rules...I was very impressed at the organization. Tracy Wanamaker, my co-music therapy supervisor on this trip, told me she's been doing 3-4 miles on the treadmill each day to prepare for the hike. Am I going to die in the jungle? 

The bus ride was actually pretty nice until about 3 hours in..then I was tired of talking, my legs hurt, and the roads got bumpy so I started to feel a little woozy. Mainly because the only thing I'd eaten was some trail mix I bought in Atlanta. I was sick with hunger, literally. That, and exhaustion. All the students looked worn out as well. We're all acclimating to the heat/humidity. 

When we got here, and went to our huts, I realized that I have one lamp in the entire place, so I have my flashlight to get around and to try to find things in my bag. It was dark when we got here around 7:00 p.m. We're an hour BEHIND Indiana because while they are on Eastern Standard time, they don't observe Daylight Savings Time. And we're so close to the equator the sun is down early. 


We walked up the road for dinner (in the dark because we all forgot to carry flashlights) and found candles lighting up a dining place. These local guys can see in the dimmest light. Eric said it is because electricity is SO expensive. He said his energy bill is ridiculous here. So there I sat, at this little bar counter place, eating jerk chicken off of foil with my fingers. It was awesome. I also had breadfruit and some type of bread. It was truly great. But I couldn't help but think I was dreaming the whole time. 


Tomorrow is free time for the students to tour the area and the supervisors will visit the sites we will work in next week. I'll see the infirmary (one of the worst in the country in terms of conditions), the School of Hope (school for children with special needs, including hearing impairments), and the homeless shelter. The man who owns Great Huts where we are staying supports the homeless shelter. 


At this point, I'm still learning what my role is with the students, how much I will need to implement myself in terms of music-based activities, etc. I am also trying to learn all the students' names. This is a large group of around 20-25 new people I need to get to know very quickly. 


I am looking forward to it...and hoping I don't find a scorpion in my shower tomorrow morning! I promise to load pictures sometime tomorrow when it is daylight and I can take some of this beautiful place.

Jamaica-Bound: Experiencing the Jamaica Field Service Project

Several students from Saint Mary-of-the-Woods College have participated in the Jamaica Field Service Project, directed by Eric Wills, over the past couple of summers. This summer is no exception. Sherry Bube, music therapy junior, and Laura Kempton, music therapy senior, both applied and were accepted to participate in this unique experience. SMWC faculty member Sharon Boyle, Associate Professor of Music Therapy and Coordinator of the Undergraduate Music Therapy Program, has been selected to participate in the program this summer as a music therapy supervisor. Two music therapy supervisors (Tracy Wanamaker from SUNY-Potsdam will be working alongside Boyle) and approximately 16 music therapy students from all over the country, representing numerous music therapy programs, are on their way to Jamaica today to work as volunteers in an infirmary, homeless shelter, and school (School of Hope) in the Portland Parish, Jamaica. In addition, music educators and music education students and other volunteers will also participate in the June experience. 

Boyle will journal about her experience as a music therapy supervisor over the next ten days. Please check back to learn about her JAFSP experience and also see pictures of this beautiful, rural part of Jamaica.